The limiting factor here is height. The clear cross section of the fuselage will not leave more than 1 to 2 mm of air when accommodating the X08 servo in an upright position. No need to mention that that maximum height is only available next to the longitudinal axis in the middle of the fuselage. On the other hand, a daisy chain assembly with the servos in a line would grow too long and compromise the position of the battery and the receiver.
So this is the plan: The servos are slanted by some 30 degrees and installed in parallel next to each other, but with a longitudinal offset of about 12 mm. This will help to reduce the building length of the servo mount while keeping the tallest parts of the servos close to the centreline of the fuselage.
And this is how it turned out to be at the end: Please note that the servos were moved considerably off centre to port to make more room for longer servo arms. The kit’s original 2.3 mm laser cut (and partially badly burnt) servo mount was replaced by a custom built 3 mm plywood unit for more rigidity. As previous cg estimates revealed, I am no longer fighting overweight in this area.
The cylindrical ends of the servo motors, however, still need to be as close as possible to the fuselage’s centreline. The 1 to 2 mm of air mentioned above are urgently needed to avoid contact of the red and blue wires with the rough fibreglass skin. These delicate wires are not able to take much chafing.
A 2s 7.4 Volt lipo battery is required. The contenders are:
- E-flite EFLB2802S30, 280 mAh, 30C, 16g
- Hacker TopFuel ECO-X, 350 mAh, 25C, 22g
I pick the Hacker TopFuel. Not only because its color is a perfect match for the Flitz’s pink color pattern, but mainly because we are a bit on the tail-heavy side. Since weight is to be added to the nose anyway, it’s better to do so in the form of energy rather than lazy, poisonous lead. The body of the bigger battery will only just fit in the available space. The two wire sets for power supply and balancing and their respective plugs, however, will be a challenge to accommodate.
I remove the straight red and black factory shrink tubing and cut off a little bit of the clear cover. This will allow the power leads to leave the battery’s body sideways. The rustic trestle keeps the leads in the required angular shape while a piece of black 5 mm shrink tube and the hot air gun make it permanent.